Coastlines, Maori, Mud and Sulfur

Full disclosure:  This post is a little wordy, so just skim the photos if you prefer.  We include captions under each photo so you’ll get the gist of the post.

From Auckland we headed north to the Bay of Islands region.  Bob quickly mastered driving on the left—although we both find it a little confusing at times. Fortunately this accommodating country understands tourist confusion, so they provide helpful hints.

Despite initial concern, Bob turned out to be a natural at driving on the left!
Sally was grateful for these pedestrian reminders

The drive north showcased two wonderful things about this country—scenery and the prominence of cows and sheep.  Dairy, meat and wool are some of New Zealand’s top exports, so we passed enormous herds along the way.   The cows are peaceful and bulky.  The sheep are simply adorable. There are even bucolic chickens pecking around rest stop parking lots.

View from rest area between Auckland and Bay of Islands
Parking lot scavengers–quite pretty!

We stayed in the touristy little town of Paihia. It has a wonderful beach, but what we enjoyed most was visiting the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.  This area is considered the birthplace of New Zealand.  It was a landing site for many Europeans, and there is much history here about the interaction of those Europeans with the Maori (native residents).  In 1840, 43 Maori chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi with the British Crown.  Eventually, over 500 chiefs would sign the treaty.  The treaty governs sovereignty and property rights, and is considered New Zealand’s founding document.  It is not without controversy (the English and Maori versions of the document conflict), but the document is still in effect and the Waitangi Tribunal works with both versions of the treaty to settle claims.

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

We absorbed a lot at the Grounds about Maori culture.  They were clever negotiators and fierce warriors; they greeted their visitors with bulging eyes, protruding tongues, and athletic, lightening fast movements.  They were master carvers, building and decorating huge canoes and meeting houses.

Carving on Meeting House
War canoes

Decor atop meeting house

Our new tribe


We also visited the lovely town of Russell.  Once known as “the hell-hole of the Pacific” because of rampant debauchery, it is now an elegant harbor town populated with pretty sailboats, houses and restaurants.  The oldest church in New Zealand is also there.  The church is active today and features gorgeous hand-needlepointed pew cushions. 

Lovely Russell Beach
Oldest Anglican Church in New Zealand
Hand needlepointed pew cushions
Sweet needlepointed kiwi birds

From the Bay of Island region we headed south and stopped in Rotorua.  There is plenty of action in this town, from Zorbing (rolling down a hill in a large clear sphere) to extreme mountain biking. 

Zorbing . . . we did not do this but it is popular here!

But we are nerds not adventure-seekers, so we spent our time here touring marvelous demonstrations of geothermal volcanic activity. This activity is on display throughout the city in the form of steaming vents, bubbling mud pots, colorful (and smelly) sulphur ponds, and explosive geysers.  There is a LOT happening both above and below the ground in Rotorua!

Prince of Wales’ Feather Geyser
Steaming lake

Sulfuric lake with bubbling mud

We also visited the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest. (If you think that is a mouthful, the name of the Maori village where we saw the geyser and steamy lakes is Tewhakarewarewatangaoteopetauaawahiao.) This is a large, peaceful stand of California Redwoods just outside Rotorua. We felt at home among these majestic evergreens.

The Redwoods were planted in 1899 to see if the species would grow in New Zealand. They obviously can!
Bobby, get off that tree! Act your age!

Final, very random and unexpected fact: Rotorua’s Sister City is none other than KLAMATH FALLS OREGON! There is a rose garden dedicated to Klamath Falls in Rotorua’s extensive Government Gardens Park.

As always, thanks for sharing this crazy journey with us. We appreciate it! Love, Bob and Sally

5 thoughts on “Coastlines, Maori, Mud and Sulfur

  1. Absolutely fantastic photos and compelling narrative. Thank you for sharing your journey!! And so glad you are safe – so sad for Christ Church.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Thank you for your lovely photos and descriptions. Love the needlepoint cushions!
    I am glad that you two are far N of Christchurch. I’m sure the whole country is reeling…

    Liked by 1 person

Leave a comment