My research on where to ski in Europe consisted of asking a friend of a friend who had skied in Europe where she liked to go. (Thank you Joan and Annie, for helping with my research.)  She suggested several locations, then concluded her e-mail by writing, “Of course it is all about the lunch and the areas all have wonderful refugios all over the mountains.  You plan your day around which lunch spot.  Do you want the ski-in grappa bar or the outside grill or the one famous for its spec.”

I thanked her for her advice, but arrogantly thought, “Well, she must not be much of a skier because who would focus on food over skiing?  I want my money’s worth for that lift ticket and lunch is not part of that.”  Well, I have eaten that thought every day I have skied here.  Annie, my deepest apologies.

Refugios are restaurants (and sometimes places to sleep) serving food and drink throughout the Dolomite ski areas.  They are at the base and top of nearly every lift, as if our gracious and generous Italian ski hosts are concerned we might go without a cappuccino or beer for more than one run. Some are small and nostalgic.

Others are larger and more modern.

Some are in logical, flat locations, while others are perched impossibly on cliffs.

 

(The speck on top of the peak above the chairlift is a refugio.)

Some play classic rock (Pink Floyd!), some play Italian pop, some intermix Madonna with Bavarian-style oompah music.  Despite these differences, they all share enticing qualities.  These qualities draw in even the most enthusiastic skiers–no one can resist the draw. That is my only explanation why there are so many refugios, and why they are consistently, but pleasantly, busy.  One is simply compelled to stop at regular intervals to enjoy all they offer.

What are the alluring qualities?   Every one serves delicious food.  Pizza, sausage, pasta with ragu. Ham (spec) and cheese paninis.  Dumplings and spätzle.  The list goes on.  And the food is served by friendly hosts, as if you are the only person in the world they care about at the moment.

Additionally, every refugio offers stunning views.  Whether viewed through a delicately white-curtained window (pretty heart-cut valances, simple lace-trimmed swags) or from a generous wooden deck, the Dolomites consistently provide 360 degrees of pure alpine beauty.

 

Finally, these refugios all excel at foam.  Whether one wants hot chocolate with rich whipped cream, or an inviting head on a local beer, or a perfectly swirled cappuccino, all refugios invite you in for your foam of choice. (Tip:  choose the cappuccino if you need a pick-me-up after some challenging runs.)

 

Annie was right.  While skiing is important, the refugios take equal billing. The frequent stops are worth every moment.  I like this slower pace.  Thank you, Annie, for igniting my own slow-ski movement.

Cheers!

Sally